FAQ Help Center
Got Questions? Here’s Everything You Need to Know.
Ordering & Custom Orders
Just fill out the Custom Order Form. You can choose your preferred style, materials, colors, and add any details or ideas you have. I’ll follow up with curated options, recommendations, pricing, and current lead time.
Lead time varies based on my current backlog and show schedule, but most custom builds take between 2–6 months. Once your order is approved, I’ll give you an estimated completion window and keep you updated as your knife moves through the build process.
Most custom builds do not require a deposit. The only time I ask for one is when the design is so unique or specific that I wouldn’t be able to sell it to someone else if the order fell through.
If your build includes custom laser engraving, I require at least 75% payment upfront before starting the engraving work. This ensures the design, materials, and artwork are fully committed before I begin.
Yes! I’m happy to share progress photos and updates as your knife comes together. From profiling and grinding to handle shaping and the final finish, I’ll keep you in the loop so you can see your custom knife take shape every step of the way.
Absolutely. I can build matching pairs or full sets using the same block of wood, resin pour, or material combination. Keep in mind that with products like wood and resin, there will be variances in the material
If you don’t see the style you want listed, just let me know. I’m happy to look at your idea and tell you whether it’s something I can build.
Sometimes. If you have wood or other materials you’d like to incorporate, send me a message and I’ll let you know if they’re workable and safe for knife handles.
Sharpening, Maintenance & Care
Yes — all Steel Dog Knives come with free lifetime sharpening.
Just bring your knife to one of my market events, knife shows, or contact me to arrange a drop-off. You only pay return shipping if you need it mailed back.
You can bring it to me in person at a market or show, or contact me to schedule a drop-off.
If mailing it in, I’ll walk you through safe packing and return shipping options.
For most home cooks, sharpening every 9–12 months is perfect.
Professional kitchens may need sharpening more often depending on use.
A honing rod will help keep the edge aligned between sharpenings.
Absolutely not.
Dishwashers damage edges, handles, and the knife’s finish.
Always hand wash and dry immediately.
High-carbon knives develop a natural patina over time — that’s normal and part of the blade’s character.
To keep it protected:
- Wash by hand only
- Dry immediately
- Add a light coat of blade butter or mineral oil if storing for a while
- Avoid cutting acidic foods and leaving them on the blade
End-grain hardwood cutting boards are the best. Edge grain wood or heavy duty plastic are also suitable.
Avoid glass, stone, bamboo, and titanium — those destroy edges quickly.
Do you repair chipped or damaged blades?
Best options:
- Magnetic strip
- Saya (blade guard)
- In-drawer block
Avoid letting the knife knock against other utensils.
Materials & Craftsmanship
I mainly use AEB-L and Nitro-V stainless steels. Both offer an excellent balance of edge retention, toughness, and corrosion resistance, making them ideal for high-performance kitchen knives that don’t require constant maintenance.
For high-carbon blades, I typically use 52100, a classic, proven steel known for exceptional sharpness, fine grain structure, and outstanding cutting feel. It will develop a natural patina over time, which many chefs love.
If you’re unsure which steel fits your cooking style, I can help you choose the best option.
I use a wide range of premium materials depending on the look, feel, and performance you’re after — stabilized woods, exotic burls, resin hybrids, G10, synthetics, mammoth ivory pieces, Fordite, Boatie, and custom resin work.
No matter the material, every handle is individually shaped, contoured, and finished by me to create a knife that feels great in the hand and stands out on the counter.
Yes. Every knife is built by me in my Texas shop. I use professional equipment — grinders, drill presses, heat-treating ovens, and other tools — but every step is personally done, controlled, and finished by my own hands.
All of the blade profiles, shapes, and contours are my own designs, developed through years of testing, refinement, and real-world use. Nothing is copied, imported, or pulled from a template. Each knife reflects the lines, balance points, and geometry I’ve learned produce the best cutting feel.
For Damascus, I source the steel from a few makers I trust who specialize in producing high-quality patterned billets. Once the steel is in my shop, every stage of the knifemaking process — profiling, grinding, heat treating, handle shaping, finishing, and sharpening — is done by me.
Heat treatment is one of the most important steps in blade performance. I heat-treat all of my blades in-house using a digitally controlled kiln, proper thermal cycling, fast or plate quenching (depending on the steel), and precise tempering.
For my stainless steels like AEB-L and Nitro-V, I also use a cryo treatment to refine the steel’s grain structure and maximize hardness, toughness, and edge stability.
Every blade is tested for hardness and consistency before it ever gets a handle.
Absolutely. Most of my kitchen knives feature a carefully controlled distal taper. This improves balance, cutting feel, food release, and tip performance. Taper and thickness are intentional choices in every design.
It depends on the steel and the design. I use a mix of hand-satin finishes, belt satin, polished stainless, and stonewashed finishes for certain high-carbon blades. Every finish is chosen to complement the steel and protect the blade.
Most of the time, I use a Scotch-Brite belt finish. It’s an ideal working finish for kitchen knives — durable, easy to maintain, and simple to freshen up during a “spa day” when your knife comes back for its free lifetime sharpening.
Shipping, Returns & Warranty
Most in-stock knives ship within 2–3 business days. Custom orders ship once completed.
All orders include tracking, and I ship using reliable carriers so your knife arrives safely and on time.
Yes — I can ship worldwide.
Keep in mind that international buyers are responsible for any customs fees, VAT, duties, or import restrictions in their country.
Every knife is securely wrapped, protected, and boxed to prevent damage in transit. I pack each order as if I were sending it to a friend — safely and with care.
If there’s an issue with your order when it arrives — damage, defects, or something that’s clearly not right — contact me and we will make it right.
Because each knife is individually built, I don’t accept returns for normal variations in color, grain, or small aesthetic differences that are part of handmade work.
Custom orders are generally non-refundable unless there is a craftsmanship issue.
Yes. Every Steel Dog knife is backed by a lifetime warranty against defects in craftsmanship or materials. If something ever goes wrong that shouldn’t — I’ll fix it or replace it.
This covers craftsmanship issues, not misuse, abusive cutting tasks, or damage caused by dishwashers, soaking, or neglect.
Small chips and minor damage can usually be repaired. Reach out with photos and I’ll let you know what’s possible. Repair costs depend on the severity but are always handled fairly.
Other
Yes. I offer bespoke, one-on-one (and occasionally one-on-two) knife-making classes. These aren’t generic group workshops — they’re fully customized, hands-on sessions where we build a knife from start to finish.
We’ll cover:
- design principles
- profile development
- edge geometry
- grinding techniques
- heat treatment
- sharpening
- finishing and handle shaping
Classes typically run 1.5 to 3 days, depending on the style of knife and materials. Pricing is usually 2–3× the cost of the finished knife, but I provide all materials, and you leave with a completed knife that meets my standards.
If you’re interested, reach out and we can discuss dates, blade styles, and what you want to learn.
Absolutely. Tell me what you cook, how you grip a knife, and what you’re used to — I can recommend the best blade shape, size, steel, and handle style for your needs.
I can add custom touches depending on the project — including laser engraving, initials, or unique design elements. Some options depend on the steel and finish, so reach out and I’ll let you know what’s possible.
Yes. I offer kydex and leather options depending on the knife style. For kitchen knives, saya-style covers are often available as well.
Visits are available by appointment only, especially for class consultations or custom-order discussions.
Absolutely. I always recommend starting any set with a paring knife — it’s the most versatile small blade and a staple in every kitchen.
From there, choose your workhorse knife — the one you’ll reach for 80% of the time. For most people, that’s a chef knife, santoku, or petty, depending on personal preference and cutting style.
After that, we can add specialty knives based on what you cook or bake: slicers for brisket, nakiris for vegetable-heavy meals, bread knives, boning knives, etc.
If you’re unsure, I’m happy to walk you through your options and help build a set that fits your cooking style and budget.